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The Rum Conference |
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Attendees at Huber Starlight
Distillery ================
April 29,2007 The Rum Conference, Bordon,
IN Article by John Lipman, West
Chester, OH
"Okay," Bill Owens calls out to the people
milling around the Holiday Inn Clarksville
lobby, "Let's get these buses loaded and get
started." It isn't even half past seven in
the morning yet, and three days of intense
learning, teaching, and sharing are about to
commence, as Owens' American Distilling
Institute begins the fourth in its series of
annual trade conferences for artisan and
craft distillers, and the first to focus
specifically on the production and marketing
of rum.
For many of the 122 people attending, the
festivities began yesterday, as they trickled
in from every corner of the United States and
from as far away as El Salvador, Brazil,
Holland, and the U.K. Registration went on
during the afternoon, and several distillers
brought samples of their products for
tasting. Some were already acquainted from
previous events, others were familiar through
email. Most were meeting for the first time.
Among Owens' multitude of valuable talents is
his skill at "people-matching". Bill
(thankfully) does not make use of the
"icebreaker" games commonly employed for
coercing people to relate to one another.
Throughout the introductory session, and
continually as the conference goes on, he
floats ("zooms" may be a better description)
among the members, adroitly picking those who
he feels would find one another interesting,
putting them together with a small
introduction, and just letting them go at it.
On the surface, he makes it look easy; but to
do it means he's already internalized enough
about each individual there to make matchup
choices that work. And they always do.
Friday and Saturday's events will be lectures
and demonstrations held at the Huber
Starlight Distillery in Indiana, but today we
are touring some important industry suppliers
and mainline commercial distilleries. The
buses roll out of the Holiday Inn and cross
the beautiful Ohio river into Louisville as
we head for our first tour, that of the
Vendome Copper & Brass Works. Perhaps
best-known for building most of the
multi-thousand gallon column stills and
peripheral equipment (both copper and
stainless) used by the big bourbon
distillers, Vendome also produces beautiful
pot and combination stills with capacities as
low as fifty gallons. The entire production
operation (or at least the part we are
visiting) is contained in a single, noisy,
shop area, so there is no place for guides to
take us around, but Vendome has provided
several representatives to answer questions
and discuss issues with the distillers. It is
a very lively session, as craft distillers
are almost always also tinkerers and
seat-of-the-pants engineers who love to talk
equipment... and so are the big boys at
Vendome. There is a lot of ladder-climbing
and flashlight poking as the distillers
examined samples and real-time projects being
produced for a medium-large all-copper
facility currently under construction.
Whether batch or continuous, the still marks
the end of the first part of spirit
production. Part two begins and ends with the
barrel. And our next stop, also in
Louisville, is the Kelvin Cooperage facility.
Kelvin originated in Scotland in the early
'60s and moved to its present location in the
early '90s. It is operated by the McLaughlin
family. But this was a cooperage prior to
that, being the site of the Universal
Cooperage. This time it's necessary to break
into smaller groups (which is the way we'll
be doing all the rest of the tours) of about
a half-busload each. Our group is guided by
Paul McLaughlin, who is actually a Harvard
and Notre Dame University trained attorney
with an international law firm, but also
works with his father and brother,
specializing in fulfilling wine barrel
needs... and for the fun of showing off the
family business to entrepreneurs who want to
know more about aging and maturing options
available to them.
Having seen where the spirit goes in and
where it comes out, our next couple of stops
will be at the homes of two of the world's
premier makers of the spirit known as
Kentucky Bourbon. It would, of course, have
been more appropriate for us to visit
American rum distilleries, but the fact is
that there aren't any American rum distillers
that would be in a class above that of the
existing members visiting here! Perhaps the
only American rum distillery with a national
distribution would be Pritchard's, and Phil
Pritchard is a member of the ADI himself. So,
for inspiration, we must turn to Kentucky
Bourbon -- admittedly not a bad choice
itself. And Bill Owens, without even a pinch
of self-aggrandizement (heck, he'd deny it
even if you asked him), has carefully chosen
the perfect combination of two bourbon
distilleries to show this group -- every one
of whom holds the potential to be as
successful -- how a world-class distillery
looks from two very different angles.
Our first stop is at Woodford Reserve in
Versailles. That's "Verrr-Sails" for those of
you who would otherwise have used the French
pronunciation. It wasn't always called
Woodford Reserve; it used to be Labrot &
Graham (as can be seen stamped on the
barrelheads in the warehouse), but the owners
(Brown-Forman, who also make Jack Daniel's
whiskey) changed it to match the brand name.
Our tour guide didn't mention this, but it
was also once known as Oscar Pepper, and was
the distillery where Dr. James Crow
(generally thought of as the father of
bourbon whiskey) was the distiller. Since
Brown-Forman doesn't own the Old Crow brand,
they prefer not to mention that rather
important detail of the distillery's history.
The distillery, which was a crumbling ruins
as late as the early '90s, was rebuilt, at
enormous expense, by Brown-Forman and began
production in 1996. What makes the distillery
unique, to anyone, but especially to craft
distillers, is that it has no continuous
(column) still. Instead, a set of three huge
and beautiful onion-shaped all-copper pot
stills were designed in Scotland especially
for the distillery, which certainly makes it
relevant to rum craft-distillers who are
almost exclusively pot-still oriented.
Unfortunately, the pot stills, as used by
Woodford Reserve, have been extensively
adapted for their unique needs and aren't
really very typical of either normal pot
stills nor of conditions likely to be
encountered by rum-producers. Plus (at least
in the case of our group) our tour guide,
while very pleasant and probably a wonderful
choice for average tourists, was hardly up to
the sort of knowledgeable question he
received from avid distilling enthusiasts
with experience and tough questions. The
impression that many received was one of a
lovely, tourist-oriented distillery whose
product's success may be more greatly
influenced by publicity than by actual
innovation. Realistically, that may not be a
bad thing to learn, even if only as a
temptation to avoid in producing a truly
artisan product.
Or perhaps not. Woodford Reserve is certainly
not embarrassed about being a
tourist-oriented facility. They didn't spend
millions of restoration dollars just to make
good whiskey (and make no mistake, whether it
lives up to its pot-still authenticity image
or not, Woodford Reserve is world-class
excellent whiskey). The grounds are the most
beautiful you'll see anywhere, the visitor's
center is both authentically educational and
picturesque, and the company sponsors many
events that bring the public to this location
for more than just "touring a distillery".
One example, which we have an opportunity to
enjoy, is David Larson, their
"chef-in-residence". Throughout the year,
Woodford Reserve offers dinners, luncheons,
brunches, and other events-with-food
featuring Larson's creations, made always
from fresh locally produced ingredients and
featuring Woodford Reserve. In that respect,
the distillery really does qualify as a
distillery pub, or at least a
distillery-restaurant. For those members who
may have picked up on that, Larson is
available to answer any questions that they
might have relating to their own ideas about
combining rum with food as an enterprise unto
itself.
Our luncheon today is a delicious offering of
fresh green beans and artichoke salad, with
the entree being classic Kentucky hot brown,
a turkey, bacon, and tomato dish, simmered in
Mornay sauce.
The second distillery we visit is Buffalo
Trace, near Frankfort. One could hardly ask
for a better example to use as an opposite to
Woodford Reserve. Instead of a
carefully-restored and immaculate
museum-quality environment, we exit the buses
to find ourselves in what can only be
described as a "whiskey factory". Everything
here is huge. And old. And run-down. And they
crank out hundreds of cases a minute of
spirit (okay, I exaggerate; but not that
much). But this distillery is real. It is
operated by people who not only know what
they're doing, but also know what they're not
doing. Yet. But they will. The people who
make Buffalo Trace bourbon (and their many
other products) love distilling whiskey --
you can see that in everything they say. Our
tour guide easily handles technical questions
from the distillers, and even-more-technical
follow-up questions, too. He says if he
doesn't know the answer, he'll find someone
who does. But no one's able to give him a
question he can't answer, and in terms that
distillers can understand. It's easy to see
these aren't stock tourist answers, and the
distillers know it, too. My own personal
experience with bourbon whiskey and it's
producers makes it clear that Owens couldn't
have picked a better combination of two
distilleries to present an example of that
class of operation to his members.
Although we could have taken a straight route
from Frankfort back to Clarksville, our
itinerary takes us, instead, to Bardstown.
This is the home of Heaven Hill, the largest
and most successful family-owned distillery
in America. Here we do not tour any
facilities, but instead split up into our
by-now-familiar four groups and take turns
sampling Heaven Hill bourbons, wandering
through some really excellent displays of
bourbon (and especially, but not exclusively
Heaven Hill) history, and another buffet
offering, this one being mostly delicious
hors d’ouvres rollups and Italian meatballs.
Normal tourists (who do not get the buffet)
are offered two Heaven Hill whiskeys at the
tasting. One is the current year's Single
Barrel expression (which we also tried) and
the other being an 18-year-old Elijah Craig,
certainly a wonderful choice for bourbon
aficionados. But our group is being hosted by
Larry Kass, who, as its Director of Corporate
Communications is the very personification of
Heaven Hill. And Larry has substituted their
Original Bernheim whiskey for the Elijah
Craig, because this whiskey, made from
predominantly wheat grain, rather than corn
or rye, is unique to Heaven Hill. As such, it
represents both a unique product (this is the
only example of this type of whiskey in
existence since at least the beginning of
prohibition in 1920) and the innovation that
is integral in even such a giant company as
Heaven Hill. Larry's monologue is anything
but standardized, and he speaks directly to
the distillers in terms all can readily
understand and relate to. And laugh at, too,
since Larry's presentation is as funny as
most professional standup comedians.
It was almost light when we left this morning.
It is almost dark when we return.
More tastings, more conversation. Sleep comes
only when you want to, and you don't want to.
Will we be sorry tomorrow?
FRIDAY-
As we board the bus at 7:15 this morning, we
can see who turned in early and got some
sleep last night. But we can't see them for
long, because our eyes keep closing. We have
only one destination today, the Huber
Starlight Winery and Distillery, operated by
Ted Huber and his family. Starlight produces
brandy, made from their own wines, for sale
and are consistent winners of awards. But,
like most distillers, they are experimenters
and innovators, and they have attempted other
spirits on occasion, including rum. The
facility itself is designed for conferences
and large events, and makes a perfect
location for the remainder of our conference.
We will be here all day today, and return to
be here all day tomorrow. Coffees, juices,
and breads are waiting for us when we arrive.
Yesterday we all left Heaven Hill in a state
of laughter. It would, of course, be too much
to ask of our first speaker that we begin a
sleepy-eyed day the same way. But that's
exactly what Appleton Estate's Michael
Delevante brings us. His topic is Rum
Distilling in the Caribbean, and he covers
that thoroughly, but with such humor and wit
that we are more awake by the time he
finishes than we were at the beginning (how
often does THAT happen? At eight in the
morning?). Delevante, also known as the "Rum
Doctor", is senior master distiller for
Appleton Estate in Jamaica, author of at
least one book on the subject, designer of
Appleton's stills (both column and batch),
and a genuinely funny and interesting guy who
loves distilling and all aspects of it. And
although his presentation is completed first
thing this morning, we will continue to find
Michael all the way to the end of the
conference, poking around here, climbing up
into Starlight's infrastructure there, and
asking as many questions of the distillers as
he answers.
He is followed by Kevin Settles, owner of the
Bardenay Distillery/Bar/Restaurants in two or
three locations in Idaho. Kevin shares his
experiences, frustrations, and learnings in
making the transition from a brew-pub style
of enterprise to the current
distillery-oriented facility, focusing on the
problems that are peculiar to smaller
distillers.
Kevin is followed by Nahor Gustavo, who may
LOOK as though he should be carded before
serving, but who is actually the very
knowledgeable and professional master
distiller for Fazenda Mae De Ouro, one of the
premier companies trying to introduce world
consumers to Brazil's unique rum, Cachaça.
Gustavo knows the ins and outs of producing
and marketing non-standard spirits and unique
spirits, and is able to pass some of that
information on to the distillers at the
conference.
That's three lecturers, and it's time to get
up and see something happen. In an adjacent
building is the gleaming copper and
stainless-clad Christian Carl still that
Starlight uses to make brandy. Today it is
being used to distill rum from molasses,
sugar, and some citric acid to speed up the
fermentation a bit. This is the first run,
and distiller Ted Huber has already taken the
heads off and is now accumulating the middle
cut. He will redistill this later today.
Members watch, ask questions (the Christian
Carl representative who installed this still
is here to answer technical questions about
it), and sample the distillate as it
progresses through the cycle. Afterward we
return to the main room for a salad and
buffet luncheon, followed by the afternoon
speakers.
Zac Triemert, brewmaster and distiller at
Upstream Brewing Company in Omaha, Nebraska,
opens up this afternoon's presentations with
a talk about his adventures with the Nebraska
laws governing brew pubs and especially
distillery pubs. He also takes a little time
to talk about how he came to be on the agenda
this afternoon, and that underscores Bill
Owens' contribution as a leader and
facilitator. Zac was not originally scheduled
to speak. As the conference was starting,
Bill called him aside and asked if he would
agree to say a few words. "Just a few
minutes, Zac, no more than fifteen". "Okay,"
says Triemert, "I can do that". When the
agenda prints out, he picks up a copy and
finds his fifteen minutes are from 1:15 to
2:00. That said, Zac's tales are fascinating
and humorous, and Bill's choice was, as
usual, exactly what was needed.
It also tied in well with the next speaker,
Joan Carpenter of the TTB, who spoke about
Federal regulations and how to go about
licensing one's distillery. Basically, the
process is very easy; everything you need is
easily obtainable. But timing is important,
as is getting every "i" dotted and every "t"
crossed in order to prevent (or at least
minimize) delays. Joan showed us just how
friendly the process CAN be, even including
printing up special checklists and source
sheets to make it even easier.
It is now time for the second distillation of
the Huber Experimental Rum. Some go to
observe, others wander among the vendors'
displays, and some who are judges will
adjourn to taste and rate the rums that are
competing here today. At about five o'clock
the banquet room is opened and we proceed to
a dinner of garden salad, beans & ham, and
country fried chicken, as well as a chance to
sample all of the rums that had been entered
into competition. Following dinner there is
an award ceremony, with medals being given
for each of several judging classes. We board
the buses back to the hotel at about 8:00
this evening.
SATURDAY
It's 7:45 in the morning.
My teeth itch.
My tongue is asleep.
A quick glance around the Holiday Inn lobby
confirms that not everyone went directly to
bed upon returning last night. Nor for
several hours afterward. Eyes are red and
drooping. An occasional snore can be detected
on the bus ride out to Huber/Starlight. But
there are just as many eyes today as there
were yesterday. No one's found a need to go
home and wash their socks or anything. And by
the time coffee and juices have been poured
and nut breads have been consumed, all those
eyes appear to be open for ADI Vice President
Pennfield Jensen's welcome speech.
Penn then hands the podium over to one of the
Distilling Institutes favorite characters
(and a character he certainly is), Phil
Pritchard, of Pritchard's Distillery in
Kelso, Tennessee. Phil, like many spokesmen
for industries that benefit from talks such
as these, spends much more of his time than
he'd ordinarily care to doing presentations
such as these, with accompanying slide show.
And like any professional entertainer, his
"show" is not ad hoc, but well-rehearsed and
predictable. At least to him. It's a funny
and refreshing talk, and although he may be
familiar with it, his audience probably
isn't. Unlike some others who use a standard
"script", the contents of what Phil says is
knowledgeable and accurate, as well as funny,
and he connects well with what must be the
hardest possible audience to play to -- a
room full of professionals, and somewhat
over-stimulated professionals at that. He
came in with an advantage; everyone loved
him. He finished with even more of an
advantage; everyone loved him even better.
Wayne Curtis is different in one way: he
isn't already an icon among the distillers.
But he's similar in another: his presentation
is both educational and entertaining. From my
own point of view, Curtis is particularly
attractive as a speaker, because he deals
with the history and cultures of rum more
than the practical aspects of distilling it.
The fact that I've already read the book
several times and am familiar with it doesn't
diminish from his presentation, though, and I
enjoy it very much.
Conversely, my non-technical background (or
is that "technical NON-background"?) probably
prevented my enjoying Brown-Forman's
cooperage research/development guru Theo
Lioutas' talk as much as many of the
distillers obviously did. Once the charts and
statistical deviation lists and such go up on
the screen, my eyelids begin accumulating
lead weights at an alarming rate. I feel I am
certainly in the minority, however, as there
were several members who are hanging on
Theo's every word. Lioutas' focus is on the
barrel, its structure, and its effects over
time on the content stored within.
Before Lioutas speaks, however, we spend an
hour with Wade Shanower, president of the Big
Red Liquors organization, and the chief
marketer of beverage spirits in Indiana.
Shanower takes the position that, as a
representative of the merchants who will
actually be selling a distiller's rum to the
consumer who will drink it, walks the members
through what the process looks like from his
point of view. This is very heady stuff. Wade
names names, calls 'em as he sees 'em, shoots
from the hip, and takes no prisoners. His
brutality is well-intentioned, and vitally
important. He begins with a very adroit fact
to keep in mind: He shows a list of major
beverage spirits companies. He points out
that he has no empty shelves; those companies
have products filling all of them. And what
does that mean? It means that if you want
your product to occupy a position on those
shelves, you have to knock one of their
products out of that position. There are a
number of reasons for a product to be
displayed. Among them, of course, are
"pressure" issues, such as a distributor's
refusal to provide needed product unless a
particular other product finds a home
somewhere. But mostly the reasoning is simple
business sense -- if Wade feels he can make
more money selling your product, you're in!
He then points out what to do... and what NOT
to do. With examples. Including negative
examples. No offense meant; just the truth.
If the product is of poor quality, it doesn't
matter what you do -- it won't be successful.
Yesterday, Michael Delevante noted that you
need to sell your product three times before
you make any money. A customer can be enticed
into buying a product that looks attractive,
or that's cheap, and he might even buy it
again. But he won't buy it a third time if he
doesn't like it. Shanower expands on that
idea by pointing out that, although the
quality is certainly the most important part
in the long run, the customer won't have a
chance to experience that quality unless the
marketer believes he can make money selling
the product. And to do that requires
packaging and a price point that sells. He
shows us samples of products that will sell
themselves (and some that won't), and
products that will require different degrees
of salesman participation in order to move.
He explains (in detail) what his different
commissions are, and why. He explains what to
expect from a distributor, and what not to.
I'm neither a seller nor a distiller of
beverage spirits. I'm not trained in
separating ethanol and assorted esters and
congeners from one compound and transferring
them to another. But I understand how to
transfer ideas from one individual to
another, and Wade Shanower's presentation was
really fascinating to me. I think if I were
an artisan or craft distiller of rum, his
presentation all by itself, without regard to
any of the other wonderful parts of this
conference, would have been worth twice the
admission price.
The last speaker for the day, as well as for
the conference, is Ed Hamilton, a writer
specializing in rum, whose subject was
dealing with wholesalers. At first glance, it
might appear as though this would be a
similar subject to Shanower's, but it didn't
cover the same issues. Hamilton's session
concerned mostly his own experiences, which
are exotic, adventurous, and entertaining.
Who wouldn't love to live on a sailboat in
the Caribbean, sailing from island to island
and being welcomed with open arms (and
bottles) everywhere? He didn't even need to
bring up dancing girls and pirate treasure,
because we all visualize those as part of the
package. Well, at least some of us. I suppose
the dyed-in-the-wool distillers fantasize
about copper containers and toasted oak. Good
for them; I'm with Ed, thankyouverymuch,
although by the time he finishes, the burnout
is beginning to overtake us. My eyes are
getting droopy and I find myself trying to
figure out how he got to this part of a
sentence when I can't remember hearing the
beginning. I look around to find other bowed
heads and closed eyes, and I don't think
they're praying.
But you know, anyone who can get drifty
during a talk about sailing the Caribbean and
bootlegging rum like a real pirate has got to
be suffering from conference overload.
And, typical of Bill Owens' planning, this
begins to happen only at the last sentences
from the last speaker on the last day.
Folks, it just doesn't get any better than that.
Next year's conference is about whiskey.
Looks like I'm gonna do it again!
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Hudson Valley Spirits / Pot Still Book |
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Hudson Valley Spirits is under construction.
An amazing project.
Check out.
harvestspirits.com ===================
I will be traveling for the next three months
photographing craft distilleries for a book.
If, I have not already photographed your
distillery, and your city is not listed below,
contact me. I will make an effort to come by
and photograph your distillery.
I will be traveling with my computer and
email is the best way to reach me:
bill@distilling.com. Also, you can call me on
my cell: 510-566-9566
Here is the
itinerary
Hayward, CA 94541
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
Los Angeles, CA 90012
San Diego, CA 92101
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Las Vegas, NV 89044
Flagstaff, AZ 86001
St. George, UT 84770
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
Palisade, CO 81526
Denver, CO 80205
Colorado Springs, CO 80906
Santa Fe, CO 97505
Liberal, KS 67901
Dodge City, KS 67801
Emporia, KS 66801
Kansas City, MO 64108
Lee’s Summit, MO 64064
Weston, MO 64098
Atchison, KS 66002
Omaha, NE 68102
Muscatine, IA 52761
Cedar Falls, IA 50613
Dubuque, IA 52001
Chicago, IL 60626
Bloomington, IN 47404
Louisville, IN 47150
Kirkwood, MO 63112
St. Louis, MO 63139
Nashville, TN 37219
Memphis, TN 38103
Kelso, TN 37348
Baton Rouge, LA 70801
New Orleans, LA 70122
Mobile, AL 36602
Panama City, FL 32401
Tampa, FL 33605
Miami, FL 33179
Key Largo, FL 33037
Key West, FL 33040
West Palm Beach, FL 33401
Cape Canaveral, FL 32920
Homeland, FL 33847
Atlanta, GA 30303
N. Charleston, SC 29405
Asheville, NC 28801
Wilmington, NC 28401
Buxton, NC, 27920
Elizabeth City, NC 27909
Durham, NC 27701
Sperryville, VA, 22740
Culpeper, VA, 22701
Mount Vernon, VA 22121
Morgantown, WV 26505
Pittsburgh, PA 15122
Washington DC, 20001
Annapolis, MD 21401
Baltimore, MD 21201
New York, NY 10001
Providence, RI 02903
Boston, MA 02130
Portland, ME 04101
Boston, MA 02130
Burlington, VT 05401
Utica, NY 13501
Rochester, NY 14603
Buffalo, NY 14209
Cleveland, OH 44103
Detroit, MI 48203
Holland, MI 49423
Muskegon, MI 49440
Sheboygan, WI 53081
Green Bay, WI 54304
Milwaukee, WI 53202
La Crosse, WI 54601
Sioux Falls, SD 57103
Rapid City, SD 57701
Lead, SD 57754
Sheridan, WY 82801
Cody, WY 82414
Canyon Village, WY 82190
Livingston, MT 59047
Idaho Falls, MT 83401
Twin Falls, ID 83301
Boise, ID 83702
Baker, OR 97814
Seattle, WA 98116
Portland, OR 97210
Chico, CA 95926
Loomis, CA 95650
Hayward, CA 94541 =====================

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Modern Spirits Speak Out / William Grant expands |
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Modern Spirits responds to Charles Cowdery
article on "craft distilling"
Charles:
Thanks for the slap upside our collective
heads on this important issue. As you noted,
we call ourselves some version of artisan,
craft or micro boozemaker without having
kicked around what these words really mean.
We use them because they so effortlessly fit
the image of small-to-medium operations and
also because we think they will help set us
apart from the big, industrial (and slightly
evil) liquor establishment. But do they
accurately describe what we make and what
happens if someone -- like the Wall Street
Journal (remember that Jan. article on the
proliferation of small vodka brands) -- calls
us on it?
At Modern Spirits, we struggle every day with
the opportunities, responsibilities and
potentially enormous pitfalls involved in
calling ourselves artisans. Like most
companies in our field, shy of distilling the
base neutral spirits (which seems to be made
pretty well by the "industrial" folks), we do
everything else ourselves. So what's the
artisan bit? We work with individual farmers
to source most of our ingredients and grow an
increasing number of them ourselves. We hand
select and taste every single ingredient.
(Sounds excessive, but it's the best way
we've found to ensure high quality and
consistent flavor.) And we taste and adjust
our batches on a daily basis to produce
vodkas that can be paired with food outside
of Siberia.
What we've learned in hawking our handiwork
around the country is that consumers seem to
have a pretty good idea of what they'll
accept as an artisan product or, to put
another way, be willing to pay more money to
drink. Here's our short list:
- Quality: This doesn't seem open to debate,
except to friends and family (because they
love us). Everyone else wants to taste the
kind of uncompromised quality that the big
companies can no longer justify producing.
Styles, traditional vs. innovative products
and categories of liquor seem to matter less.
- Passion: Why did you get into this line of
work? No, really -- why? Hope it wasn't for
the money, because people can smell greed
better than the complex, layered experience a
few of us may fantasize about selling to
Diageo. Better have a compelling and credible
story. Chronic backache and scars help make
the case.
- Authenticity: Consumers want the "artisan"
involved in making whatever they've paid a
lot of money to drink. The higher the maker's
involvement in the process, the more
authentically artisan the goods. In other
words, someone other than a handful of
nameless companies or hired guns better be
making the hooch.
This isn't a complete list. I hope others
will pitch in with what they think are
important additional qualifiers or more
thoroughly define the ones above. Why bother?
Because to a great extent our handiwork
represents the best consumers expect from
liquor companies, and because defining and
living up to our artisan-craft-micro moniker
represents the best chance each of our
companies has to succeed and have its work
matter. Let me run down some of the more
specific ways that I think an industry-wide
consensus on what are artisan spirits can
help:
Sales
- How much would our sales increase if
retailers, restaurants and bars featured
"artisan spirits" aisles and sections of
their menus. They do for "micro brews." A
general guideline for what qualifies for
"artisan spirits" would make persuading them
a lot easier.
- Do customers want to visit your plant and
buy directly from you? If they don't now,
they will soon. With a definition of the
class of spirits we produce, we could much
more easily appeal to state and federal
lawmakers to allow us to sell to the public
(like wineries and brandy makers).
- Similarly, we could appeal to ease
regulations that prohibit sales at events and
sampling at retail in key states around the
country (e.g., Calif.).
Marketing
- Our products have a certain cache right
now. We need to protect and nurture it for
the day when (not if) the big liquor
companies start positioning mass-market
liquors as "artisan" and "craft." A
widely-accepted definition of "artisan
spirits" would help retailers, the media and,
ultimately, consumers resist the hype.
Taxes & Regulations
- We pay the same taxes and are burdened by
the same paperwork as the largest
distilleries. Not so in the beer industry,
where "micro brewers" pay a lower excise tax
rate. And I know many of us would rather pay
our excise taxes and file inventory paperwork
quarterly, rather than every month. (We can
do the former now, but it's the latter that's
a real pain!)
I hope this puts some real-world context to
the importance of this first step in defining
our industry. It won't be easy but I think
the rewards will be well worth the
effort.
Cheers,
Melkon
Modern Spirits
The Sipping Vodka
ModernSpiritsVodka.com
626.771.9469 ======================
William Grant builds Ayrshire distillery
WILLIAM LYONS
Source: The Scotsman
April 8th
WILLIAM Grant & Sons, the family-owned
distiller and one of Scotland's biggest
private companies, is to build a malt
distillery in Ayrshire to meet booming demand
from emerging markets.
The maker of the world's best-selling single
malt, the Glenfiddich, is understood to be
investing up to £10m on its site in Girvan to
expand both malt and grain production.
The news comes just weeks after Diageo
announced it was building its first malt
distillery in more than 30 years in Roseisle
on Speyside.
The new distillery, yet to be named, will sit
alongside the firm's existing grain whisky
distillery in Girvan. The site was previously
home to its Ladyburn single malt distillery,
which closed in 1975.
Containing four wash stills and four spirit
stills it will take nine months to build.
Senior management at the company are
expecting the first spirit to flow from the
stills by the end of this year with the
whisky hitting the market in 2012.
Chief executive Roland van Bommel, who has
just masterminded Grant's best ever year
financially, said the new facility will
produce a high-quality single malt for
blending.
He said: "Thanks to the continued profitable
growth of our Scotch whisky brands and the
likely increase in demand in the future with
new markets opening up, there is a need to
increase capacity and supply of malt whisky
for blending."
Last week the 121-year-old firm outlined its
plans for a massive £23m global marketing
push for its flagship Glenfiddich brand in an
attempt to make it the world's first single
malt whisky to sell more than a million cases
a year.
Sales of Scotch whisky are beginning to look
very interesting as demand from expanding
markets such as the US, China, Russia and
India comes on stream.
Figures from the Scotch Whisky Association
show that Scotch now accounts for a quarter
of all of British food and drink exports by
value.
More than one billion bottles were shipped in
2006, an increase of 6% on 2005, contributing
£2.5bn to UK exports.
Last year shipments to China were up 27% to
£58m, though the market is only the 10th
largest in terms of value. The US is the
biggest export market, with sales of £400m.
John Wakely, a former investment banker who
has been analysing the drinks market for more
than 20 years and is now a consultant, said:
"If the BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India and
China) countries do actually open up then we
will see across the board increases in
production. If that happens, for the first
time in 25 years you may begin to get a bit
of a shortage."
Latest results show that Grant's saw an 8.1%
leap in pre-tax profits to £77.3m for the
calendar year 2005. Turnover climbed to
£352.6m, compared with £339.5m the year
before.
The firm is currently looking for more
acquisitions. In January it expanded into the
tequila market with a 30% stake in Mexican
brand Milagro. It also owns Cognac producer
Raynal & Cie and Hendrick's Gin, which sells
more than 100,000 cases
annually. =====================

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