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Creating a Buzz in Virginia
Whiskey and Vodka Are New Proof of High Spirits By M.J. McAteer
Special to The Washington Post

SPERRYVILLE, Va. -- Rick Wasmund climbs a seven-foot ladder and carefully steps into his kiln, where barley for 500 bottles' worth of whiskey lies several inches deep on the floor. It's hot in there, sometimes 150 degrees, and Wasmund's eyes are reddened from the sting of smoke, which seeps through holes in the steel floor buried beneath the barley.
In Scotland, the air would have the earthy smell of peat, but here at the Copper Fox Distillery it smells fruity: Wasmund is using apple and cherry wood to dry his malted barley. It's an unusual choice that is producing an unusual whiskey.
Sean McCaskey (left) and Rick Wasmund check the color of a batch of whiskey at Copper Fox Distillery.
A handful of new distillers, including Rick Wasmund of Copper Fox Distillery, are making liquor made solely in Virginia.
Wasmund is one of a handful of new distillers to create a liquor made solely in Virginia. Last summer Paul McCann of the Parched Group shipped the first batch of the Cirrus Vodka that he is making, from start to finish, in Richmond. And this spring Chris Richeson plans to begin selling Spirits of the Blue Ridge Vodka, eventually to be made wholly at his Chesapeake Bay Distillery in Virginia Beach. Like Wasmund and McCann, he intends to create a premium potable for a niche market.
With the arrival of these small-batch distillers, the Old Dominion may be more spirited than at any time since Prohibition.
They join three longtime distillers of liquors that could be considered native to the state: Laird & Co., which makes apple brandy and a blended liquor called Apple Jack, all from apples grown in the Shenandoah Valley; A. Smith Bowman, best known for its Virginia Gentleman bourbon; and Belmont Farm Distillery, whose signature spirit is a legal version of moonshine called Virginia Lightning. Laird & Co., in North Garden near Charlottesville, has been distilling since 1780; Bowman, once of Fairfax County and now of Fredericksburg, since the 1930s; and Belmont Farm, outside Culpeper, since 1987.
So why this bubble of interest in distilling in Virginia now?
Although overall consumption of alcohol in the United States has been largely flat, hard liquor's share of the market is climbing, from 28.7 percent in 2001 to 32.8 percent in 2006, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States. And within the spirits market, sales of "super-premium" (read: top-dollar) brands were up 17.5 percent in 2006 from 2005, after increasing by more than 20 percent from the year before. "The more expensive the product, the faster the growth," says Frank Coleman, senior vice president of the council.
Wasmund is hoping that his Wasmund's Single Malt Whisky will appeal to consumers who have shown a growing thirst for deluxe tipples.
He begins with "thoroughbred barley," developed by Virginia Tech and grown in the state's Northern Neck. Then, with the help of his mother, Helen, and a friend, Sean McCaskey, who assists with "everything on the production end," Wasmund does the malting. The process involves soaking the grain three times, spreading it on the floor, raking it every four hours for five days until it germinates and then drying it in his kiln over wood smoke. Wasmund says he is the only distiller in the country to do his own malting.
Bourbon, which must be made from at least 51 percent corn, is required by law to be aged in oak barrels for at least two years. Scotch, which must be made in Scotland from malted barley and other whole grains, must be aged in oak barrels for at least three years. Premium bourbons and Scotches generally are aged years longer. But Wasmund's single malt spends just four months aging in oak. So how can such a callow whiskey avoid having a bite like a Rottweiler's?
Wasmund says his secret is "chipping," a process in which bags of charred chunks of apple, cherry and oak wood are suspended in the liquor as it ages in the barrel. That accelerates the flavoring -- and mellowing -- of the whiskey, he says. Wasmund apprenticed with Scotch distiller Bowmore on the Isle of Islay, but Kevin Erskine, who is the author of "The Instant Expert's Guide to Single Malt Scotch" and writes on the subject at http://www.thescotchblog.com/, says Wasmund's product is "very much not Scotch."
"Rick is on to something," Erskine says on the phone from Ireland, where he is visiting the whiskey maker Bushmills. "But I would like to see Wasmund's after two years in the barrel. It takes time for wood to interact with liquid."
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By George, There Will Be Rye

After a hiatus of a couple of centuries, Washington's Mount Vernon distillery is getting back into business as Virginia's oldest and newest maker of a native liquor.
With the help of grants from the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States and the Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America, a replica of Washington's distillery is expected to be completed and opened to the public this spring. A museum will be housed on the building's second floor.
The plan is to distill, age and sell limited-edition commemorative bottlings of George Washington rye whiskey to offset the cost of the $2 million project.
The idea is a potential money maker, given the success of a charity auction in September in which Marvin R. Shanken, editor and publisher of Cigar Aficionado, set a record price for American whiskey. He spent $100,000 for the first two bottles of a 24-bottle run made by a team of American master distillers in 2003, then blended and aged at Mount Vernon -- by any standard, a stiff price for a stiff drink.
Opening festivities for the distillery, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. March 31 and April 1 at Mount Vernon, 3200 Mount Vernon Memorial Hwy., Alexandria.
703-780-2000;http://www.mountvernon.org.
Features: food, music, demonstrations and tours. $4, $2 with $13 general-admission ticket; children 6-11 $2, $1.50 with $6 general-admission ticket. Children 5 and younger free.

BILL PASSES VIRGINIA LEGISLATURE ALLOWING MOUNT VERNON TO SELL HISTORIC GEORGE WASHINGTON RYE WHISKEY

Mount Vernon, VA – Timed for the national observance of George Washington’s birthday, the Virginia House of Delegates has followed the Senate in passing legislation yesterday allowing Historic Mount Vernon to sell small amounts of commemorative spirits as part of the reconstructed George Washington's Distillery, the Distilled Spirits Council announced today.
“I’m pleased to play a role in revitalizing a piece of Washington’s legacy,” said Virginia State Senator Linda T. "Toddy" Puller, the bill’s sponsor. “We recognize the importance of keeping Washington’s spirit alive – in all respects – and proudly support the efforts of the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association.”
Under Virginia law, the Virginia Alcohol Beverage Control operates state stores to sell distilled spirits. Senate Bill 807, which passed the Senate Jan. 17 and now goes to the governor, enables Mount Vernon to receive a special Virginia Alcohol Beverage Control (VABC) store designation allowing visitors to purchase samples of George Washington’s Straight Rye Whiskey and other special historic products when the distillery opens to the public on Saturday, March 31.
“By allowing us to sell George Washington's rye whiskey, our visitors will be able to taste an authentic flavor of the 18th century, while learning more about Washington's entrepreneurial spirit,” said Dennis Pogue, Chief Historian at Historic Mount Vernon.
Pogue noted that Washington erected the 2,250 square foot distillery in 1797, making it among the largest whiskey distilleries in early America. In 1799, Washington produced 11,000 gallons of whiskey, worth the then-substantial sum of $7,500.
In 2003, for the first time in 200 years, George Washington’s own whiskey recipe was distilled by a team of master distillers, representing America’s most celebrated spirits brands, in collaboration with Mount Vernon’s historian, under special license from the Federal Government and the State of Virginia.
“I want to commend Senator Puller and the legislature for enabling Mount Vernon to share George Washington’s historic spirits with a wider audience of tourists and whiskey aficionados,” said Distilled Spirits Council President Peter Cressy.
The Distilled Spirits Council and its member companies, with the support of the Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America, have been the major donors to Mount Vernon for the $2.1 million project to excavate and reconstruct the historic distillery.
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Brewpubs Seek to Make Distilled Spirits

By NATE JENKINS
The Associated Press
Friday, February 9, 2007; 4:27 AM

LINCOLN, Neb. -- Zach Triemert wants to bring what he learned in Scotland to Nebraska, and it isn't how to play bagpipes. "We hope to use Nebraska grains and fruits to make world-class spirits," Triemert, who earned a master's degree in brewing and distilling while in Scotland, told a legislative committee recently. "It will bring another source of recognition and pride to our state."
Upstream Brewing Company in Omaha, where Triemert is head brewer, is one of an increasing number of brewpubs nationwide that wants to add distilled spirits such as rum and whiskey to its list of alcohol offerings that are made onsite then sold to customers and wholesalers.
Zach Triemert poses in front of beer fermentation tanks at the Upstream Brewing Company, in Omaha, Neb., Wednesday, Feb. 7, 2007. Triemert wants to bring what he learned in Scotland to Nebraska, and it isn't how to play bagpipes. "We hope to use Nebraska grains and fruits to make world-class spirits," Triemert, who earned a master's degree in brewing and distilling while in Scotland, told a legislative committee recently. "It will bring another source of recognition and pride to our state."
A bill before the Legislature mimics what was done for Nebraska beer makers almost 20 years ago, when restaurants where allowed to craft their own brew. Now there are about a dozen brewpubs in the state.
When Nebraska passed the brewing law, there were about half a dozen similarly run microdistilleries in the country. Today, there are 88, said Bill Owens, president of the American Distilling Institute, who says the sharp increase is part of a general rise in demand for a range of specialty products, from beer to bread.
Big distillers are also cashing in on the demand for high-end booze. While revenues from sales of the cheapest, or "value," spirits decreased from 2005 to 2006, revenues from the most expensive spirits, called "super premiums," jumped nearly 19 percent during the same period, according to the Distilled Spirits Council, a trade group that represents mostly large, mainstream distillers.
Revenues from sales of super-premium vodka jumped the most more than 43 percent a figure sure to catch the attention of distillers because vodka, based on sales, is the most popular spirit in the country.
The heightened demand is partially due to more exposure to high-end spirits at tastings and other venues, and a national resurgence of "cocktail culture" where booze "mixologists" generate the same sort of excitement as top-level chefs, said Shawn Kelley, spokeswoman for the council.
"People aren't drinking more," she said. "They're drinking better."
Winemaking states such as California and Oregon lead the microdistilleries pack, but increasingly the endeavor is moving to the country's midsection. Minnesota, Iowa, Kansas, Missouri and Colorado all have what Owens calls "craft distillers."
When Seth Fox started a distillery in Kansas 1 1/2 years ago _ the first distillery in the state since the 1880s _ he figured he might be able to sell up to 1,500 cases of his Most Wanted Vodka. He sold double that, and has since branched out to produce other spirits. He uses Kansas grain to make the vodka.
"Kansas? Vodka? People don't believe me," Fox said.
Microdistilleries like his have popped up despite a mishmash of state and local laws that in some cases haven't been reformed since Prohibition and can take more than a year to navigate before operators get a permit, Owens said.
The government arm that regulates alcohol in Nebraska does not view the potential for microdistilleries as a threat. Hobert Rupe, director of the Nebraska Liquor Control Commission, said the interest in niche liquors is simply the third step in an alcohol evolution marked by more consumer interest in high-end, locally made products.
First it was beer, then wine and now spirits, Rupe said.
"You're seeing people go higher end, the idea of going local is appealing," he said.
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To obtain a distilled spirits permit go to: http://www.ttb.gov/spirits/index.shtml
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--To obtain TTB list of DSPs go to: http://www.ttb.gov/foia/distillerpermits.xls..
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--To obtain TTB statistics on distilling go to:
www.ttb.gov then scroll down to "spirits" and then the "year".
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--To obtain Distilled Spirits Laws and Regulations go to: http://www.ttb.gov/spirits/spirits_regs.shtml
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--To obtain label regulations go to: http://www.ttb.gov/spirits/bam.shtml distilled spirits manual circular.

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Standards of Identity for the Craft Distiller

by Dave Bateman, Industry Analyst, Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB)

What Are the Standards of Identity for Distilled Spirits? The regulations in 27 CFR part 5 establish standards of identity for distilled spirits products and categorize these products according to various classes and types. As used in part 5, the term "class" refers to a general category of spirits, such as "whisky" or "brandy." There are 12 different classes of distilled spirits recognized in part 5 of the TTB regulations. The term "type" refers to a subcategory within a class of spirits.

Subpart C of 27 CFR part 5 outlines the requirements that must be met for the classes and types of distilled spirits in order for you to properly designate and label your product. Why Are the Standards Important to You?

If you intend to produce a specific class of distilled spirit, and want to be able to print that type of spirit on your label, you must meet the minimum standards described in section 5.22 of the TTB regulations, the standards of identity for distilled spirits. For instance, the Class 1 definition in section 5.22(a) explains that the type, vodka, must first be distilled at or above 190° proof as a neutral spirit. In example, here is the definition of a neutral spirit with two types for vodka and grain spirits: 27 CFR 5.22(a) Class 1; neutral spirits or alcohol. “Neutral spirits” or “alcohol” are distilled spirits produced from any material at or above 190° proof, and, if bottled, bottled at not less than 80° proof.

(1) Vodka is neutral spirits so distilled, or so treated after distillation with charcoal or other materials, as to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color.
(2) “Grain spirits” are neutral spirits distilled from a fermented mash of grain and stored in oak containers. By this definition, a distilled spirit can be called neutral spirits or alcohol as long as 190° proof is achieved. The source of sugar or starch to produce this neutral spirit is not a factor in the definition. So, to place the term “vodka” on a label of beverage distilled spirits, it must come from a neutral spirit, which was produced at 190° proof or higher.

Further, whisky definitions are listed in 27 CFR 5.22 (b)(1) to (b)(9). These include whisky, straight whisky, bourbon, corn, light, blend, blend of straights, spirit, Scotch, Irish, and Canadian. By definition, if you want to distill and label a whisky as a bourbon, rye, wheat, malt, or rye malt whisky, you must produce a distilled spirit with at least 51 percent of the grain, respectively, that is named on the label. Bourbon is unique in that it must be distilled from a fermented mash of 51 percent corn.

The regulations further state that all whisky spirits must be distilled at not more than 160° proof, and bourbon, wheat, rye, malt, or rye malt whisky must be stored in new charred oak containers at not more than 125° proof. If these whiskies are named as a straight whisky on the label, they must have been stored for at least two years.

The remainder of classes are as follows:

(c) Class 3; gin.
(d) Class 4; brandy.
(e) Class 5; blended applejack.
(f) Class 6; rum.
(g) Class 7; Tequila.
(h) Class 8; cordials and liqueurs.
(i) Class 9; flavored brandy, flavored gin, flavored rum, flavored vodka, and flavored whisky.
(j) Class 10; imitations.
(k) Class 11; geographical designations.
(l) Class 12; products without geographical designations but distinctive of a particular place.

Where Can I Obtain More Information?

The statutory requirements for labeling distilled spirits are in 27 U.S.C. 205(e) and the standards of identity regulations are listed in 27 CFR 5.22. To access the standards of identity regulations on the TTB Web site, please visit the Distilled Spirits page of

www.TTB.gov.

Also, if you need to understand what a gauge is or if you want to identify what required information is necessary to document a bottling record, this information is found in 27 CFR part 19 and is also accessible through TTB.gov.
The Beverage Alcohol Manual is another excellent source of guidance on basic mandatory labeling requirements and other regulatory matters involving distilled spirits. You may contact TTB at any time if you have further questions or concerns.

The Bureau’s Distilled Spirits Industry Analyst is available at dave.bateman@ttb.gov
or by phone at 202-302-3859 and 816-623-9405.
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The Virtual Absinthe Museum
An extensive reference collection of original artifacts documenting every aspect of the history of La Fee Verte, from its use as a medicinal elixir in ancient times, to its heyday as a fashionable aperitif in the 19th century and its prohibition at the beginning of the 20th.

CVI Brands
1025 Tanklage Road, Unit F
San Carlos, CA 94070
65-595-1768
CVI Is interested in new products from microdistillers.
Contact: Paul Joseph
civibrands@sbcglobal.net
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Back Issues of 2005 Newsletters

The book: Making Pure Corn Whiskey is available at:

http://www.home-distilling.com/ search.asp
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